Today we’re going to do another great beginner woodworking project! If you need the most simple Christmas DIY, please read the bench makeover article. If you’re ready to move on to a bit more complex, but still simple project… this is it! A DIY stocking shelf that makes a great stocking shelf for Christmas or can be easily used in an entryway year-round!
This post was sponsored by my friends at Worx and may contain affiliate links. Opinions, tutorials, and plans are my own.
This is truly a beginner DIY project since all you need is a drill if you are able to have lumber cut at your local home improvement store! If not, you’ll need a saw.
Supplies needed to make a DIY stocking shelf:
– 1×6 (cut to 30″ for this 5 stocking shelf)
– 1×4 (also cut to 30″)
– 1.25″ drywall screws
– D-ring hooks or sawtooth hooks
– Stain of your choice
Tools needed to make a DIY stocking shelf:
Step 1- Cut your lumber:
Cut your lumber. Some home improvement stores will cut dimensional lumber for you. If yours doesn’t, you can use a hand saw or any power saw of your choice to cut your pieces. I recommend a miter saw for this type of cut.
For 5 stockings, I did 30″. You need to cut both your 1×6 and 1×4 to the same size. I recommend going to up 35″ or 36″ for 6 stockings, but I don’t think I would go smaller for fewer stockings. Just space them out more on the 30″ size.
Step 2 – Lay out your pieces:
Lay your 1×6 face-up and put your 1×4 right up against it on its side. This is where my Worx Pegasus came in handy! It can be tricky to drill pilot holes into two pieces of lumber without a clamp (or two!). I was able to lay it on my bench and clamp it within seconds. It made drilling my pilot holes a breeze!
Step 3 – Attach two pieces:
After drilling 5 pilot holes, I used my 1.25″ drywall screws to attach the two pieces together.
This drill I used is also made by Worx and is called the Switchdriver. You can go back and forth between different bits without having to have multiple drills! It’s also a very lightweight drill but still sturdy and able to be set upright (some lightweight drills fall over when set up like that).
Step 4 – Stain:
I used Minwax in Dark Walnut for this shelf, and I tied jute rope around it to make it removable after the holidays.
Step 5 – Attach hooks:
I purchased these hooks from Amazon. They come with a small screwdriver, and you don’t even need to drill a pilot hole into pine since it’s such a soft wood. They go in very easily!
Step 6 – Attach D-rings or sawtooth hooks:
You can use either D-rings or sawtooth hooks to attach the shelf to the wall. Just make sure if you’re using sawtooth hooks that you have long enough nails. Some of them come with short nails, and they won’t hold the weight of the shelf very well.
D-rings are the safer option, but they will make the shelf tilt forward just slightly at the top. Another option is to do one hook in the center and then Command strips on the sides for added stability and support.
And that’s it! Super easy project! And it was even easier thanks to my Worx Pegasus workbench and my Switchdriver duel drill. I’m really a fan!
If you’re interested in either item, you can purchase directly through the Worx website. They have a discount going on right now on the Pegasus! AND, through the end of 2018, you can use my promo code WXCHARLEE to save an additional 10% on your entire Worx purchase! So go snag yourself some goodies!
It’s the most wonderful time of the year. That means it’s the most wonderful time to DIY. And with everything else going on in your life at this season… we need a simple DIY that won’t add one more thing to your plate. Enter: DIY Christmas Tree Box with a mosaic pattern. It’s simple. It’s adorable. And it is amplifying your already beautiful tree.
I’ve always loved the look of Christmas tree boxes, but I never quite got around to making one for myself. This year, I knew I wanted to build one, but I looked everywhere for a more modern version and couldn’t find anything I liked or anything that was even similar to what I was looking for.
All the boxes had either a basic slat pattern or an X pattern, and most modern trees were being put in baskets… and don’t get me wrong… I like the look of the baskets, but I wasn’t ready to pay a lot of money for them. (If you know me- I’m all about DIY on a budget. Reusing pieces from holiday to holiday- just like my magical changing bench– and even building things that can stay out year-round like this shelf!)
The idea to make one with a mosaic pattern popped into my head, and I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I had a million other things to do, but I immediately dropped everything and started building my DIY Christmas Tree Box. Ha!
So let’s get on to the tutorial!
This post contains affiliate links. Please visit my disclosure page if you would like more information and thank you for your support.
** This is my original design and idea. I hope to see many more in the future and would love to see what you create using my design as inspiration. Please feel free to tag me on Instagram or Facebook, and I will share in my stories. I love seeing what you come up with! **
Supplies needed for your DIY mosaic Christmas tree box:
– .75″ poplar plywood (dimensions will depend on your tree stand size – see step 1)
– Any 1 x poplar material to rip into smaller pieces for the mosaic pattern (or see step 2 for other alternatives)
– Wood filler
– .75″ brad nails
– 1.25″ Kreg pocket hole screws
Tools needed to build a modern Christmas tree stand
Step 1 – Measure your tree stand for your modern Christmas tree stand
I set up my Christmas tree metal stand and measured from corner to corner (or leg to leg). My tree is 10′ tall and fake, and I measured about 24″ from the outside of one leg to the outside of the next. I knew I wanted a little wiggle room, and two of my sides would be inset on the other sides, so I decided to go with 27″ and 12″ tall from floor to the base of the tree.
**You may find it helpful to put on the bottom layer of the tree if it’s a fake tree, but I wouldn’t assemble the full tree until after you finish putting your box together. I’m guessing smaller trees have smaller stands? Feel free to correct me if that is wrong…
Step 2 – Cut your Christmast stand lumber
I got lucky and had some 3/4″ poplar plywood left over from my pantry build (see my Instagram feed for more pics and details on that!). And they were even ripped to 12″ since that was the depth of my upper shelves! I considered it a sign that I should build this stand. 😉
You can probably get away with a 24″ wide box and just use a 2 ft x 4 ft sheet of plywood and have it ripped right there in the home improvement store. You’ll need to account for two sides being 1.5″ smaller on the inside since they will be inset in the other two sides when assembled. I chose to keep mine like this (so a tiny bit of a rectangle rather than a perfect square) to make it easier when cutting the mosaic pieces. It was much easier to design 4 identical panels rather than account for two being shorter.
**Be sure to account for blade width! So if you’re trying to get 4 even pieces out of one panel, be safe and do 11.75″ wide.
I chose poplar for my plywood and my mosaic because I love the look of it unstained and wanted that light color. This project could definitely be done with alternative lumber, though! You know how I love to see your tweaks on my ideas.
I ripped dozens of 3/8″ pieces of poplar out of scrap 1×4’s and 1×6’s that we had from doing our baseboard and door and window trim in our home addition. So yes! This was an entirely free project for me. Not to mention… I got rid of lots of our scrap wood! The amount you need will depend on how detailed you want your mosaic to be. It would be safe to guess that I probably used one 1×6 x 8′ long. I might have to make another one just to be sure. 😉
The I ripped a piece to 1.25″ and then turned it on its side and ripped it into 3/8″ pieces. I used this to trim the visible plywood edges after I was finished and kept it the same width as the mosaic pieces.
**ALTERNATIVE – If you don’t have a table saw or are uncomfortable using one, you could also purchase a very thin hardwood spline. It would have more of a rounded look, but it would be easier and wouldn’t require the use of a table saw.
Step 3 – Drill pocket holes in your plywood
I took two panels of my cut plywood and set my Kreg pocket hole jig to 3/4″ lumber. Then I drilled 4 holes in each side of two panels. Don’t assemble them yet since it will be much easier to attach the mosaic pattern with them laying flat.
Step 4 – Sand your wood mosaic strips
You could do this step after cutting your small pieces, but I found it much more manageable to sand the long strips and then just do touch-up sanding on the ends after making my miter cuts.
Step 5 – Make it cute! (A cute tree stand is a MUST)
This part was easier for me since I had lots of small pieces. It might be more complicated with just a few long pieces. You could either sketch it out on paper and just cut and adjust as you go. You can also cut one of your strips into random smaller pieces and place them around to see what you like. To make my life easier, I stuck with all 45-degree angles. I knew I had to do TONS of these and wanted to make it just a touch more simple.
Step 6 – Cut your wood mosaic pieces
I used my miter saw for this. I laid out all 4 of my panels and then started in one corner. It made it easier to cut all 4 matching pieces before moving on to my next piece. I just laid the strip right on the plywood and marked where I needed to cut, using only straight zero-degree cuts or 45-degree angles.
Towards the end, my pieces were in just slightly different places on each panel, so for those last 5 or 6 cuts, I had to measure on each individual panel rather than cutting 4 of the exact same pieces.
Step 7 – Attach the wood mosaic pieces
Lay your panel pieces out with the pocket holes facing down.
I normally use wood glue when doing my mosaics. But these pieces were so tiny, and I knew it would be very difficult to sand in between them. Because they were so small, I decided to forego the wood glue and just nail them on. I used 3/4″ brad nails and 18 gauge brad nailer to attach. And I did each panel individually just to make sure I liked the look.
Then I also attached the trim to the two panels without pocket holes.
Step 8 – Fill holes with wood filler
My favorite wood filler is DAP Plastic Wood. It’s a lot of tiny holes to fill, and you’re definitely welcome to leave it as is, but I prefer the look of filled holes. It does require some sanding afterward, though!
Step 9 – Assemble your Wood Christmas tree box
And now’s the fun part! Use your 1.25″ Kreg pocket hole screws to assemble the box. I again opted to omit the wood glue since I knew the box would be for decoration only. I wanted to be able to remove the screws, so I can store 4 panels flat instead of lugging around the huge box. That was a big bonus for me!
That’s it! A modern, DIY Christmas tree box for about $30 if building a 24″ box!
Installing a Magnetic Doorstop – How to Keep Doors from Slamming Shut
Today we’re talking about doorstops. Living in Hawaii, we keep our windows open most of the time. I love that we have great weather and get the trade winds keeping us cool, but it means our doors are constantly slamming shut! I found these magnetic doorstops while browsing around a home improvement store one day and took them home and installed them. Game. Changer! WOW
They serve two purposes: 1) Keeps your door knob from banging into the wall. 2) They keep the door open!
(This post contains affiliate links. Please see my disclosures page for more information, and thank you so much for supporting my blog. I have the best readers!)
So I’ll show you what I used and how easy they are to install.
DIY Floating Ladder Shelf – Modern Industrial Shelving
BEFORE BUYING SUPPLIES, PLEASE DO STEP 1!
Step 1: Use a stud finder to find the studs in your wall
**This is the most important step for building the unit like I did without a cleat across the back. In order for these shelves to be strong enough, you will need to attach each of the vertical pieces directly to a stud. For homes in the U.S., the standard spacing is 16″ on center, so my vertical pieces are spaced 32″ on center. If yours are spaced more than 32″, please keep shelf strength in mind and consider either doubling the plywood or using a hardwood instead; otherwise, you may find your shelves sagging over time.
Please also note that you will need enough room on either end to be able to slide the shelves in. I’ll be sharing a solution for tight spaces in an upcoming project!
Step 2: Gather supplies needed to build the shelves
**I’m going to provide instructions to build the shelves exactly like mine. Please make adjustments based on the stud distance you measured in step 1.
– 2x4s (x7)
– 1 sheet of 3/4″ birch or maple plywood (ripped to 11.75″)
– Iron-on veneer edge banding (I used birch)
– 3.25″ deck screws (you will need at least 12
– 1.25″ screws
– 2″ pocket hole screws (at least 60)
– Paint and stain
Step 3: Prep the 2x4s
If you’re using standard, construction-grade 2x4s, they might be in rough shape. If you’re looking for quick and easy, you can leave them as is, patch a few knots, sand a little, and move on to the next step. I really wanted mine to look clean, and I wanted them to be a bit more narrow than the standard 3.5″ width. I used my table saw to rip off the round-over edge on one side and then flipped it over and ripped it down to 2.75″.
Then I took it to my planer and ran it through once on each side to smooth out the rough top and bottom a bit.
And then I sanded. And sanded. And sanded. Ha! Don’t skip this step! Since I had planed already, I started with 100 grit and moved up to 220. If you don’t have a planer, you may need to start with a lower grit.
Step 4: Cut the 2x4s
Cut 6 of your 2x4s down to 72″ each for your vertical pieces. Then, using the off-cuts from your vertical pieces and the last 2×4, cut 15 pieces to 11 7/8″.
Sand off any tear-out you may have.
Step 5: Drill pocket holes
Use a pocket hole jig to make 2 pocket holes in each side of your 15 rails. Sand of any tear out.
Step 6: Assemble the floating ladder shelf frame
Attach the small rail pieces to the long vertical pieces using 2″ pocket hole screws. Keep the pocket holes facing up, so they will be covered with shelves or at the top and not visible to anyone under 7’2″ tall. 😉 I also used wood glue at each joint.
For equal spacing, there should be 17 5/8″ from the bottom of one rail to the bottom of the next rail.
Step 7: Cut the plywood down to length
Since the plywood is less than 12″, I just used my miter saw to cut each piece to 76″. This gave me about a 4.5″ overhang on each end.
I gave them each a light sanding with 220 grit sand paper and my orbital sander and then attached the iron-on edge banding. Trim the extra edge banding with a utility knife or an edge banding trimmer like this one.
If you didn’t get a nice seal with the iron, using an orbital sander will heat up the glue and really help bond the two together a little better, too. Just be careful not to over-sand and go through the edge banding!
Step 8: Paint and stain
I used my Graco cordless airless sprayer to spray the rails. Black spray paint would also work for this project. I am still undecided on stain for the shelves and have just left them as is for now.
Step 9: Attach to the studs
I used painter’s tape to mark 14.5″ from the floor and had already marked where each of the studs were that I’d be using.
Originally, I had used a bench to help me hold each piece while drilling, but then I decided it was too high and moved them down, and the bench wouldn’t work. Soooo…even though you see me using a bench in the video, I didn’t use it the second time around, and it worked just fine for me to hold them and just brace them on my knee. Ha!
I drilled pilot holes just above each of the bottom 4 rails and also drilled countersink holes, so my screws would sit flush. I wanted them close to the rails, so the plywood shelves would hide them. Then I used an impact driver to drill 3.25″ star head deck screws into the pilot holes I’d made.
Step 10: Places Shelves on the Rails
Once each shelf is placed on the rails, use the 1.25″ screws to secure them down to the 2x4s.
I came up with the idea to route a pattern into plywood to make doors when I had a customer come to me and ask me for help enclosing a dining room into a temporary bedroom. Barn doors wouldn’t work for the space, and this was one of my favorite customers, and I really wanted to help her save money as she was letting her grandmother move in with her family.
I’d built a few things for her before and knew her style. I thought about doing a kind of shoji or bi-fold door set, but I really wanted there to be a fun and pretty pattern on the outside that faces her living room. I’ve done mosaic designs and patterns like on my DIY Herringbone Barn Door Console and other wood mosaic art pieces. BUT, I knew all that lumber would be expensive and heavy. I had just really started getting comfortable with my router doing house projects, and I wondered if I could make a pattern in plywood to mimic the look of a mosaic. I had never seen anything like that done before, so I tested on a small piece of plywood and then pitched the idea to my customer, and she loved it! So I decided to be brave and just go for it.
How to Make a Patterned Mosaic Door with a Router
So first off, this is a two-part tutorial. In this post, I’ll teach you how I used a router to make a pattern in my hand-made doors. This same technique can be used to make barn doors or headboards or anything else you’d like to make a pattern on!
And the second part will be how I assembled and made the bi-fold doors. HERE is the link to that tutorial.
Okay, so let’s get started.
Step 1 – Purchase materials for routed door
I used 3/4″ birch plywood for the routed section of my doors
I had my plywood ripped to width at the lumber store, so I wouldn’t have to worry about lifting a big sheet of plywood onto my table saw or hoisting it in and out of my car.
Step 2 – Sketch out your DIY routed door pattern
I sketched out two options for my customer and let her choose which one she preferred. Technically, it’s the same pattern…just doors rearranged. 😉
And this is what it would look like with the doors open.
Step 3 – Set up your router and bit for the herringbone pattern
I set my router to cut about 1/8″ deep into the plywood. I didn’t want it to cut too far in, but I also wanted to make sure the grooves were visible.
Step 4 – Get your doors ready to be routed
Make sure you have plenty of battery power and back-up batteries if doing multiple doors with a cordless router. I had 8 panels to do, and I think I went through three batteries!
For the plain lined side, I measured where I wanted the lines and set my fence to allow for the distance to the router bit.
Step 5 – Routing the herringbone door pattern
When I first started, I had fully planned to draw out the whole pattern and then mark my fence back from the pattern to account for the distance from the outside edge of my router to the center of the bit. BUT, I quickly realized just how tedious that was. So I decided to just cheat. Ha! For my “fence”, I happened to be using a large level, and the width of the level plus the distance from the outside of the router to the center of the router bit was almost exactly 4″!
So I measured down 4″ from one corner and then 4″ in from that same corner. This gives a triangle if you connect those two measurements. Then I routed my first line from that first measurement, and then I set my level on that old line and repeated! Easy peasy!
Step 6 – EXTRA TIPS AND TRICKS
Be sure to keep your router tight to your fence. They can get a little squirrely and try to run away from you! No one wants to do extra patching, so just take your time and keep your fence tight.
And go extra slow when you’re approaching an intersecting line. You want the router bit to just go right in the line and not pass it at all. If you stop too soon, there will be a little extra piece of wood in your pattern. If you stop too late, you’ll have an line that will be difficult to “erase”.
Aloha! I’m so excited about my IKEA Rast makeover!
We have had these dressers since my daughter was about 2 years old, and you can see below the amount of abuse they’ve taken over the last 11 years (we actually bought three, but we’re only doing this one for her bedroom).
So sad! Complete with red crayon marks and pen. Classy, right?
So I put her to work refinishing it. If my 13-year-old can do it, you can do it!
(This post contains affiliate links. Please visit my disclosure page for more information, and thank you for supporting my craft and woodworking addiction!)
Steps to makeover your IKEA Rast dresser
Step 1 – Prep the dresser for painting
Since I was replacing the knobs with pulls, I removed the knobs and filled the holes with DAP Plastic Wood.
Since ours had years of pen and crayon and kid-prints all over it, we gave the drawers and front a good sanding with my orbital sander and 120 grit sandpaper followed by 220 grit. I will link to the products we used below as well.
Step 2 – Paint the dresser
I decided to try the Magnolia Home chalky paint sold at Target. The color is called Weekend, and it looked like exactly what I was looking for! As someone who has painted a lot of furniture, I can’t say that this was my favorite paint to work with. I do love their walls paint, though!
We did a light sanding in between coats as I usually do with chalk paints. My favorite sanding sponge is by Gator brand.
Step 3 – Seal the paint
I chose to also use the Magnolia brand wax. I’ve used it before, but never on a dark paint. In hindsight, I wish I would have just used Minwax polycrylic in a matte finish. Oh, well.
Step 4 – Drill new holes
This part will depend on the pulls you choose. I kept mine at the same height as the old knobs (centered vertically on the drawer). And I used these black pulls from Amazon.
Step 5 – Spray paint pulls
This step is obviously optional. I did a pole on Instagram and a Facebook group I’m in. It was a close tie between the black and gold in the beginning, but people changed their minds when I did a sample gold pull! If you’re not already following me on Instagram, we have a good time over there. 🙂
And that’s it! It’s like an entirely different dresser! Crazy what a can of paint and some new pulls can do for a piece of furniture!
Dresser – Ikea Rast
Green paint – “Weekend” by Magnolia Home (available at Target and Ace Hardware)
Black pulls – Amazon
Gold spray paint – Amazon
Pineapple bookends – Target
Rug – Rugs USA
Black and white planter – Target dollar section
Wave artwork –
I’m excited to share a project I did for a customer a while back. She came to me with a few different inspiration ideas for a faux fireplace, and I was so excited to build one. I built this while living in Hawaii. There, you don’t see many fireplaces, so this Faux Fireplace and Mantel DIY was a really fun project to help a “mainlander” feel more at home.
We both really loved the clean look of Ashley’s faux fireplace, and I knew I wanted to use her tutorial for the scale and bones of the project. My customer really wanted a thicker, wood-stained mantel, and we opted to leave out the hearth, so the fireplace just sits right on the floor.
**This post contains affiliate links.
Building the Faux Fireplace Carcass
I built the carcass as per Ashley’s plans, and it was so fun to see it already come to life!
Changes to the Mantel and Fireplace Surround
I also chose to use 1/2″ plywood to cover instead of MDF. Due to the humidity here in Hawaii, MDF doesn’t seem to last long, unfortunately. The plywood turned out so great, and it was easy to install with my brad nailer.
Trimming the Faux Fireplace
I trimmed this one using 1 11/16″ pine lattice molding, and for the mantel, I used two 1×8 pine boards and framed it in with 1×3 pine. All are attached with wood glue and brad nails and filled in with DAP wood putty The top is stained in this color.
For the finishing touch, I drilled a circular hole in the back with a hole saw for a cord to go through. Now they can use a flickering bulb to really make it look like there’s a fire glowing!
Finished dimensions of my faux fireplace:
You can see that I omitted the base with the drawer and changed the mantel slightly from Ashley’s plans. The finished dimensions of my fireplace are as follows:
The entire fireplace with the mantel is 43.75″ tall x 55″ wide x 15.75″ deep. White base portion is only 14″ deep x 53″ wide, but I chose to have my mantel overhang slightly.
And this basic white lamp cord with a switch for only $8. And I even bought some birch logs from Amazon! I’ve used the same ones in my own fireplace with the same cord and bulb for the last few years. Even though our fireplace is fully functional, we don’t have much use for a fire here. Ha!
Using the 3M High Strength Large Hole Repair Kit and Small Hole Repair All-in-One Applicator
DISCLAIMER: This post is sponsored by 3M.
I’m working on my final bathroom renovation in our Hawaii home, and–as with most renovation projects–I have plenty of holes to repair in the walls.
I had 4 small sets of holes after removing the old towel bar and toilet paper holder. The 3M High Strength Small Hole All-in-One Applicator is perfect for filling in small holes like this! No need to find a putty knife, sander, or spackle…this small product has it all!
Step 1 – Scrape off any excess pieces, so you have a fairly flat surface to work with. You can use the “trowel” or “putty knife” end of the All-in-One Applicator to do this!
Step 2 – Wipe off any dust, and then squirt a dab of spackle onto the holes. Use the flat side again to smooth out and feather the edges.
Step 3 – Allow it to dry fully, and then use the sander on the cap to sand the area.
For the larger hole created by the doorknob, I used the 3M High Strength Large Hole Repair Kit.
The Large Hole Repair Kit comes with a backer plate to provide support to the spackle. To make it a little easier to insert the plate, I cut a square slightly larger than the original hole.
Step 1 – Clean up the edges of the hole. The backer plate is attached with an adhesive, so you will want a dust-free surface to adhere it to.
Step 2 – Peel the paper off the adhesive strips, and put the backer plate behind the drywall.
Step 3 – Use the center pull tabs to pull the backer plate against the drywall. This will help the adhesive stick to the drywall. Once it is secure, you can push the pull tabs back into the center hole.
Step 4 – Cut the adhesive mesh piece to fit over the small opening in the backer plate. Then remove the back to expose the adhesive side and place it over the hole.
Step 5 – Use the included plastic putty knife to apply the spackling. Fill the whole area flush with the existing wall.
Step 6 – Dip the putty knife in water and use it to smooth the surface and feather the edges.
Step 7 – Let the area dry overnight, and then sand with the included sanding sponge. If you have any areas that need to be touched up, a second light coat can be applied and then sanded flush once dry.
So you might be asking why I put the word “magnetic” in quotation marks…it’s because I tried the magnetic idea. And I hated it. I’ll tell you a little bit more about it and what I decided to do instead.
First, I bought these watercolor prints from Jane. If you haven’t heard of Jane, it’s an online daily deals boutique. I’ve seen these cute prints featured quite a few times. Mine are 8×10 size, and they are printed on card stock. I had hoped they were going to be canvas, but oh well. I still really love the prints.
When the prints came in, I confirmed they are actually 8.5″ x 11″, so be sure to measure and confirm yours are the same size before you start cutting!
Here are some other 8×10 prints that would look awesome on these frames:
I used lattice trim since it’s nice and thin. It’s only 5/16″ deep, and I used 1 5/8″ wide trim for mine, and the ones available at my local hardware store were Douglas Fir.
Next, I cut my pieces to 9.25″ length. That way I got 10 pieces out of each 8′ board. Each framed picture will require 4 boards, so you’ll get 2 1/2 pics out of each 8′ board.
For my 6 prints, I purchased 3 boards and had some scrap wood left over.
Once you’ve got your boards cut to 9.25″, you’ll want to sand the edges. I love this little sander by Gator Finishing! Super comfortable grip, and is great for tight spots, too!
I stained my boards with Minwax in Early American. I left them unfinished (no top coat).
Step 2: Assemble your frame
Once the frames were assembled, I used the magnetic strips. I bought the sticky kind, and ended up cutting them about 1/2 inch shorter than the frames.
I was so excited to try out these strips…but they ended up being a pain in the butt! They were really hard to lay straight and keep from being crooked. The card stock kept sliding around as I tried to attach the Command Strips to the wall. And when I was finally finished, a big breeze came through my window and actually blew one of the pieces of card stock out of the bottom part of the frame!
So I returned to the drawing board and removed all the magnetic strips. I decided that since these were cheap prints, and I don’t think I will ever be re-framing them, I’d go ahead and use hot glue! Yes, this will destroy the prints if I ever want to use the frames for something else. But as I said, these are cheap, card stock prints. Not family heirloom portraits. 😉
I measured 1/2″ down for the bottom edge and drew a line, then did the same at the top (1/2″ up). And then I got my hot glue gun ready.
Next, flip the print over and line it up on the lines you drew.
Then, I added glue to the second piece and sandwiched my paper between the two boards. I made sure it was totally dry before I let up on the boards, but hot glue dries fairly quickly, so I didn’t have to wait long.
Step 3: Figure out how to hang your DIY Frames
The last step is to attach the Command strips, and you’re done! I used one Command strip on the top and one on the bottom as well to keep them from flapping around in the wind. Here is where, you could also add a magnet, if you’re looking for a frame to go on the fridge!
So there you have it! A cheap and easy project, the perfect DIY for someone you love. It cost me $18 to frame eight prints. Not too bad!
**This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please visit my Disclosure page.**
I seriously can’t even believe I got that nasty red stain out! We have a no-food rule in our living room, but the only exception we make is for popcorn on family movie nights. Well, my daughter decided she wanted to add some red li hing flavor powder to her popcorn, and you guessed it…it spilled on the floor. Since it’s powder, we probably could have vacuumed it right up, but the kids decided to scrub it while Mom wasn’t looking instead. Gah!! You can see how that worked out for them…
This is a 9×12 rug, and there was no way that big red stain (and the tons of little red marks all over the place) were going to be hidden. I had remembered seeing a tutorial a long time ago for using Windex and a white towel and iron (Here’s a link to my Rowenta that I love!) to remove carpet stains, so I decided to give it a shot!
I made a video if you want to see how it worked.
I’m shocked at how well it worked! It ruined a couple of my white towels, but I’m so thankful my rug has been saved!
Let me know if it works for you and other stains! I feel like the dad on My Big Fat Greek Wedding! I want to carry Windex around and spray it on everything! 😉
Sandpaper Test Tubes
1×4″ lumber (at least 31″ long) Wood glue
Stain or paint
1.25″ brad nails
Cut list for DIY test tube vase stand:
2 pieces at 12″ (for top and bottom)
2 pieces at 3″ (for sides)
I almost feel guilty making a tutorial since these are so easy to make! But if I can save you a few minutes taking measurements, then my job is complete.
Assembling your DIY test tube vase stand:
Step 1: Cut your 1×4’s and sand any splintered edges.
Step 2: Mark one of your 12″ pieces for the vase holes.
Mark at 2.25″, 4.75″, 7.25″, and 9.75″. Be sure to also mark them on the center front-to-back. For most 1×4 lumber, the center will be at 1.75″.
Step 3: Use your forstner bit to drill the holes.
You might have some break out on the back side of your piece. Since it won’t be seen, I didn’t worry about it too much. If you’re concerned, you can place your wood on top of a scrap piece of wood and clamp them together. This will lessen the amount of break out on your piece.
Step 4: Use wood glue and brad nails to attach the bottoms to the sides.
I only used 8 nails total. Two on each side. Very basic.
Step 5: Stain and enjoy!
That’s it! I told you it was super easy!
I made a YouTube video for you in case you’re a beginner and want to see all the steps done along the way.
First, I have to thank Ashley from Handmade Haven for contacting me and offering to make plans for my media console. She’s so talented, and I’m honored that she liked my project enough to feel comfortable having it on her site along with all her beautiful builds. She’s amazing!
Now on to the build!
I originally designed this piece for my own home. I had seen lots of beautiful consoles out there, but none of them had shelves at the top for our electronic devices. Yes, I could put them in the center, but I didn’t love that look quite as much. So I sketched one out for myself. Then I had a customer request a sliding door console, and when I showed her my sketch, she loved it!
I looked at plans from Shanty 2 Chic as well as Ana White and Jaime Costiglio to get me started and give me a jumping off point. I recommend checking them all out for more tips and tricks!
First, I assembled the carcass. I used 3/4″ poplar plywood from Home Depot and had them rip the 4×8 piece into three 15″ strips. The 4 x 4 sheet, I had them rip one 15″ strip vertically and then the left-over piece ripped into three 15″ strips again. I then cut everything to length at home on my miter saw.
Since I had planned to build a second one for myself, I wasn’t great at taking progress pics at this point. I wanted to see how it all came together first. When I build the second one, I’ll update with more pics. 😉
This is the point when I finally thought, “I think this might actually work!” Ha!
Ashley has all the plans laid out, but a few things I wanted to point out. Make sure you wait to cut your face trim (the 1×2’s and 1×6) until you’ve got the 1×4 base trim on. Then do the two end vertical 1×2 pieces and measure from your piece to make sure you’re not off by a touch. Then the horizontal 1×6. Then the other 4 vertical 1×2’s (two long and two small for top shelf). And last the three horizontal 1×2’s across the middle shelf. You want a nice, tight fit, so even 1/4″ can leave a big gap!
I will do a separate post on the herringbone pattern with a video soon. But I used 1×6’s and all 45 degree miters. I just attached them with brad nails directly to the plywood base.
I also mitered my 1×3’s at the corners to frame it out since I think it gives it a nice, clean look.
I stained it at this point before adding the track and hardware. I used Danish Oil in Medium Walnut per my customer’s request. I think it contrasts nicely with the black hardware.
I find that the Danish Oil tends to dry out the wood fairly quickly, so I sealed it with Minwax Polycrylic just a couple hours later.
Then I moved on to the hardware. I used the Shanty 2 Chic plans for DIY sliding barn door hardware, and their tutorial and video were REALLY helpful.
I did end up making some changes and adjustments, though. Since I was doing two doors, I needed to buy double of the door hardware. I doubled everything but the track/bar. Since this is also longer, I wanted two additional screws and spacers to secure it better. I bought an 8′ aluminum bar, and I really didn’t want to have to buy another one for the vertical pieces on the doors, so I also shortened the length of those from the original plans. I cut my bar right around 71″, and the vertical pieces at 6″.
At that point, I noticed a couple things that I knew were going to bother me. One, there’s nothing to keep the doors from sliding right off the end of the track. Most barn doors have stoppers at the end to keep them on the rail. And the second thing is that since the spacer is a full 1″, it leaves a big gap at the top, and then the bottom of the door swings closed. So from the side, the gap is uneven. It’s not a big deal, but aesthetically it bothered me a little.
To fix the problem, I got rid of the 1″ spacers. I went back to Home Depot and bought six 1/2″ spacers instead. I used 4 of them between the track and the console, and then I used two to go on the outside of the track at the two end screws. That provided a little stopper for my doors!
Be sure to either use shorter screws for the two middle spacers, or place them right where the vertical plywood is, or your screws will be too long and stick out behind your 1×6. It’s not a big deal and won’t be noticed, but just something to be aware of.
Here you can see how the door is nice and flush with the console. Perfect gap!
And the final step was to attach the backing and drill holes for the cords! I used a 1.25″ hole saw drill attachment to make a good size hole in each of the top three shelves.
I think it still looks nice and neat but allows the electronics to be easily accessible.
I’ll also try to do a video or tutorial for the door pattern if you’re interested? Also just more 45 degree angles.
And one final tip, I used Rustoleum spray paint for all the hardware, and it worked beautifully! But I noticed that the top of the track was starting to peel and flake off. It stayed just fine on the plastic wheels (which actually surprised me!) but didn’t like the aluminum bar for some reason. I tried multiple different paints and sanding, but nothing worked. I finally decided to just sand off the top of the rail and leave the silver exposed, so it wasn’t just chippy paint everywhere.
It worked great! It looks like it was meant to be that way, and no more chipping!
Thank you again, Ashley, for helping me get plans out to the world. You are a rock star!